“Kinetic Energy” was the title that MaxMara gave to its collection, which cited Dada, Constructivism and Modernism as favourite inspirations for this fashion season.
But how arty can you make one of MaxMara’s camel coats, in the finest Italian cloth, tailored to perfection? And why would you need to fancy up the basic?
This company had been designing for women in the real world since the 1950s. I would go do far as to say that it has been an accomplice and a supporter in the liberation of women. The coats – big, bold, and, for A/W 2016 with horizontal stripes that were key to the season – came in strong primary colours: red, blue, and yellow.
The display was confident, graphic, and honest. Women need efficient tailoring far more than the visions of Marilyn Monroe that were presented last season. But to give the collection a modern spin, silvered surfaces, especially the gleam of dull pewter, added a layer of modern chic.
I imagine that MaxMara feels the pressure from all the feather-filled puffa jackets on the streets of the Western world. With such precise, but free-ranging cloth coats, they deserve to conquer the fashion universe.
Max Mara Spring/Summer 2017 Full Fashion Show