Carolina Herrera – Spring 2017 Pre Show

This year marks Carolina Herrera’s 35th anniversary in business, and her Spring collection, shown this morning in the peaceful (perfect for a Monday) Frick Collection on the leafier edge of Manhattan’s Upper East Side, was a smart and metered mix of the then and now. The designer took cues and highlights from her experience and refreshed them for “the women of today.”

The most covetable things in Herrera’s repertoire were her evening gowns. The fact that they were now imbued with a deeply personal memory or flashback made them all the more special. “I used to wear a gingham blouse all the time,” said Herrera. “I wore one at my first show. So I thought I’d update it for now.” She applied that thinking to a lovely shoulderless dress, wrapped at the bust, in a graphic black-and-white scheme. She also revealed a series of fantastic striped black-and-white gowns that crackled with nighttime sophistication—even though it was only 10:00 a.m. “There’s a picture in Vogue from years ago in which Serena and Venus Williams are in the original versions of these dresses,” said Herrera. (She then displayed the photo, from her new anniversary book.)

It was in the lineup’s lightness that Herrera went for the contemporary. Metallic brocades were paper thin and crinkly; denim dresses were washed to a medium-grade indigo. These items looked quite easygoing, despite their volume. The designer also suggested knits (a crop top had an intarsia 35 on the sleeve), floor-grazing tulle skirts, and one knockout off-white lace gown with a halter neck over a little chiffon polo shirt. She and her team accessorized it with a vintage talon collar from Belperron (archival Belperron pieces appeared throughout). As rooted as the show was in the past, it still felt very current. Concluded the designer: “I’d like for this collection to be . . . effortless. Notice all the flat shoes!”

Carolina Herrera – Spring 2017 Pre Show


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