Paris Fashion Week FW 2019/20 – Balmain, Elie Saab, Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood
Have you ever tried to follow in a row and all in one breath the fashion week of Milan LONDON and Paris? I’ve never done this before and I have to confess that you really need a beastly physique to hold on!!! I thought it was an easy task, but after 3 weeks of continuous travels and displacements, I can say that it was a really difficult adventure even if exciting.
10 or 15 fashion shows are not only an opportunity to be present at the center of the fashion scene, but mean also 15 outfit problems imagining to decline a version of oneself in these incredible contexts. The biggest challenge is to imagine yourself, inspired by the brand that you will see on the runway, trying to interpret yourself feeling in tune with the context in which you will enter, always trying to remain oneself.
I don’t like, as I see more and more often around, turning into a mannequin that pretends to be different, but rather I like the challenge of combining myself with the context, according to an interpretative line that I have of that brand. Lots of Outfits to prepare and lots of luggage to organize to be in Paris and Milan always at my best, with my identity and my idea of beauty.
I feared that my strength would run out, but Paris, with all its beauty, did for me what I never imagined. She drugged me with her class, letting me be seduced by its places and its sensations, so much so that even now, when I left it, I already want to go back!
I was afraid to start this fashion week losing the Balmain show because of a delay in the slots of the private jet with which I crossed the Alps, in a breathtaking setting where the snowy mountains have given me a spectacular good morning with a beautiful sun to frame the flight. The driver’s skill and luck made up for lost time, to land in time and arrive just a few minutes before the start of the Balmain show, when everyone was already sitting in the Espace Champerret hall.
I was just lucky to have been able to attend a show in which the creative splendour of this fashion genius, has been able to make even bigger a brand that today represents with Plein my aesthetic horizon in the world of fashion. Now that the great Karl is gone I feel like looking at him as the next Lagerfeld of fashion and, even if this is only my impression, I think he can really become the future Chanel of the next millennium. The triumph of patent-leather in all its forms and its declinations have struck me a lot and, even if in the air you can feel that something is changing, I can not help but emphasize that his skill has reached levels of great artist. Paris is a wonderful silver plate where the fashion proposals take on a different charm from Milan and perhaps it is precisely in this that he hides his secret.
You can range, as in the rooms of a modern art museum, from one aesthetic dimension to another, without realizing that its beauty may also depend on it. A fascination that multiplies and perpetuates even in unexpected places, such as the school where I attended the simply fantastic show of Issaye Miyake that took place within a school of the beginning of the last century, which was the incredible setting for a colorful and fun parade in which the female body turned out to be a wonderful palette on which, the geometries and colors of Japan, have indicated a new direction to imagine your own colorful creativity.
Above the notes of a soft voice, ethereal but consistent creations, similar to the souls of the new generations, daughters of the digital world, have intersected on the black rubber field of the gym, located at the center of the school, outlining color trails on an animated canvas, visible from above, as a screen Oled 8k of the latest generation and its screeensavers.A great exercise in happy minimalism applied to fashion that we could hardly have seen in Milan, where the pragmatism of the sell out, would have easily blocked it. Issey Miyake gave me a moment of pure creativity that I probably won’t be able to wear but that showed me a way to explore.
Andreas Kronthaler’s fashion show for Vivienne Westwood, on the other hand, has a different look, telling us about a new dimension of Westwood creativity, opening the way to something different, always in line with the pure creative spirit of a woman who has been able to carve out a space of her own in the firmament of fashion over time. Compared to what I had seen in the past, we can see more particular elements, reversible or transformable garments that assume, depending on their use, various forms that can play a role of true creativity in the male and female wardrobe provided that this is considered a cue for freedom related to ideas and thoughts to be applied to one’ s existence.
A beautiful fashion show in which the usual is “the unusual”, and for this reason takes on a great narrative value in the aesthetic hierarchy of a world that still needs to dream to become something even more beautiful and wonderful. Issaye Miyake and Vivienne Westwood were two very different collections, both for their aesthetic, chromatic and philosophical rigour, but at the same time they are one of the great riches that fashion must preserve in order to offer the great horizon that humanity needs to inspire itself.
At the height of the almost-beyond-the-lines creativity of these two “artists” of fashion, I plunged back into the Paris that I love, that of the fashion ateliers and its creators, who seem to have been born especially to be able to shine with their own light, along the avenues of classical Paris, the romantic one that makes you dream of wonderful love stories lived in its lights and its colors. And once again, Paris has hit the spotlight with its “power of love”, which I found in Eliee Saab’s pret-a-porter collection, full of that romanticism and daring that make you feel as excited as you did the first time.
A collection made of dresses, jackets and spectacular creations, in which the ethereal mix of transparencies of tulle and lace are mixed with jumps, necklines, bows that with shiny trousers enhance the transparencies immersed in various colors in which black, fire red and scarlet gold, give the crepe and organza its own reason for being. A “dream” that has brought me back to the origins of my passion, in which great designers like Elie Saab represent a firm point, a polar star of style and creative ability, who knows how to render in Paris, with his work, the dignity of “unique and inimitable” place of the earth where creativity applied to the shape of the female body finds its ecstasy.
Paris is the “scent of Woman”, the place where the past has carved so deeply into the present, showing it the path of stylistic excellence, which has given it eternity, despite the constant flow of time. A spectacular fashion week, which despite the plurality of proposals always remains the true academy of the history of world costume, in which class and style can be felt everywhere: in its boutiques, in its bistros, in its streets, and on the banks of the river. I can’t speak otherwise of this dream that every season is perpetuated even in my heart. Paris Encore!!!
Author: Audrey Tritto