There was an almost militaristic air; an atmosphere of girls marching to a beat at Christian Dior. They were really young-looking, too, striding out in—among other things—stiff, slouchy denim and soft, washed-out workwear. Somewhere in the long, single-file parade there was a boiler-suit; an item perhaps carrying a faded cultural trace of World War II factory […]

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  The excitement surrounding Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Christian Dior was palpable—the first woman ever to take charge as creative director of this storied house, which for so long has stood for “femininity” in the psyche of French culture. But what does “femininity” mean in today’s world? Chiuri is a grown-up professional, who comes from long experience […]

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