Is Riccardo Tisci, designer of some of the most assertive, even threatening, menswear in the world, mellowing? “I’ve been in a really good place,” he allowed backstage, after a Spring 2017 Givenchy show that, while peopled with warrior-like models, hulking in combat gear, somehow sounded a note of affection rather than aggression. It was long due. Givenchy’s […]

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Backstage at Emanuel Ungaro tonight, Fausto Puglisi mentioned Princess Stephanie of Monaco, and a video she made circa 1986 for “Ouragan,” or “Hurricane.” If this reporter’s memory serves, it never entered MTV rotation, but it made a big impression on Puglisi growing up in Italy nonetheless. The video is found easily enough on YouTube now, and though […]

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Mood/style: beauty as a point of departure and arrival. Ermanno Scervino rereads its heritage to transport the brand into the future through experimental fabrics and a maniacal obsession for detail: the suit becomes precious thanks to floral decorations and beads, the leather jumpsuit becomes sci-fi and the evening dress discovers the sensuality of pleated lace […]

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Mood/style: The new Les Copains collection is inspired by Marrakesh, by its hidden treasure, the scents of its secret gardens and the colors of the desert. On the catwalk, loose outfits in natural hues, ample pants, crocheted tops, swimsuits and long dresses. And the regular safari jackets and garments. The more feminine pieces feature romantic […]

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Mood/style: the power woman of the 80s,  portrayed by Helmut Newton becomes the inspiration of this Elisabetta Franchi collection. The Italian designer imagines a strong, self-conscious, and tremendously sexy woman, wrapped in rich and sumptuous clothes with a need to  dress to impress with high slit and deep neckline dresses, bodysuits and micro tops, mermaid […]

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“Kinetic Energy” was the title that MaxMara gave to its collection, which cited Dada, Constructivism and Modernism as favourite inspirations for this fashion season. But how arty can you make one of MaxMara’s camel coats, in the finest Italian cloth, tailored to perfection? And why would you need to fancy up the basic? This company had been designing for women in the […]

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Retina-smarting yellow, frothy sherbet pink, hot tomato red and acid Goosebumps green: yep, psychedelic colour is back at Pucci, along with the flashy, splashy prints. In what can be interpreted as evidence of growing confidence after a somewhat rocky start two seasons ago, Massimo Giorgetti injected his spring/summer 2017 collection with the Pucci hallmarks that […]

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  Let’s get one thing out of the way at the outset: comparing the Band of Outsiders label that came down the runway here Sept. 10 during New York Fashion Week to the one Scott Sternberg helmed until it shuttered in May of last year is like saying that “The Joy of Cooking” and “Mother Goose […]

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