Roberto Cavalli Women`s Collection Spring/Summer 2016

THE instalment of a new creative director can go one of two ways – it’s either about revolution (as at Gucci) or evolution: that’s what Peter Dundas did at Roberto Cavalli today as he finally made his debut after it was announced back in March this year.

After many rumours, the appointment came as little surprise – Dundas’ collection today, too, was no surprises. All the Cavalli boxes were ticked for sass appeal, twinkle, studs, short skirts, tight shapes, a billowing thigh-revealing skirt (ball skirts here), lean-in-length dresses that came lean in fabric too, and the wild animal print we so associate with the brand.

It was what we expected him to do, bring with him that glamour he had formerly brought to Emilio Pucci and instal it once more here. Notes of newness, however, did come in the use of denim – tie-dyed and distressed on biker jackets and gilets – and an overall sportiness that saw the introduction of sweatshirts, teamed with ball skirts. It had a youthfulness.

It was a predictable and well-handled transition – let’s not forget this isn’t one of Italy’s heritage houses (again like Gucci) and it already has a loyal following and customer base and there’s no need to alienate that, it’s about keeping them on board.

And it was a homecoming for Dundas, having already worked at the Cavalli label from 2002 to 2005.