Ralph Lauren Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show

Watch the first ever Ralph Lauren Collection runway show to be available for purchase immediately following the show.

Ralph Lauren is a reed that bends in the wind but he is forever Ralph Lauren. America’s pre-eminent designer has streamlined his brand architecture and is now going through a process of more profound corporate restructure: Yet in his Milano palazzo today the 2017 archetype of Purple Label masculinity was serenely assured. This presentation, which demanded its models loiter on three steps like a huge collection of eclectically outfitted groomsmen, was notable for its lack of Wall Street formal suiting.

We started our pan from right to left with a cluster of all-blue looks; gorgeous garment-dyed silk linen suits, all silk suits, silk gabardine separates. Then a switch to gray via air-spun cashmere sweaters in herringbone or served plain worn under a lovely technically-lined tropical weight wool parka with bonded seams which, team Lauren assured, offered total wickability. A pair of fine gauge wool Bermuda shorts were injected with elastene, skinny jean style, to offer a bit of give. One sweater was teamed with a pair of wide-legged, proudly pressed white linen pants that, had the look not come shod by espadrilles, would have demanded a reprise of Channing Tatum’s On The Town tribute tap in Hail, Caesar!

Then an eddy uptown, to tuxedo jackets and complementary knits in art deco jacquards; a cardigan and sweater both bore monochrome imprints of the great soaring contours of turn-of-the-last-century New York architecture. Then, acceleration; a sports-driven section was fronted by a white mesh jacket—“suspension mesh”, apparently. Also “yes, please” was a blue, breathable neoprene hybrid of donkey jacket and duffel coat. Cut left again to the Evelyn Waugh sub-section; scarves in poppy paisley–accented sweaters in Aran-esque stripes of interestingly out-of-time pulsating color. At the last it was liftoff in an olive, military touched section headlined by an embroidered RL flight suit. This was commanding stuff.

by Luke Leitch

Ralph Lauren Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show