Emporio Armani Women’s Spring/Summer 2017

Charmani was the title of Giorgio Armani’s spring/summer 2017 collection. A word play on ‘charm’, Mr Armani hoped to seduce showgoers with a series of wafting sheer-silk layered looks in painterly blue watercolours. It was a study in femininity and elegance. As a designer, you’re constantly looking at the body, and at 82 years of age, Mr Armani is incredible shape himself, down to a rigorous exercise regime and his love of sports, the subject of which is the focus of his energetic photography exhibition, Emotions of the Athletic Body, a show of portraits and short films exploring the athlete in motion. Among his guests at yesterday’s opening were a dozen or so athletes from the Rio Olympics (Armani had the gig of outfitting the Italian team). Happily, this season, with body-skimming Louche pajama suiting and all-flattering reveal and conceal looks at play, one won’t need the body of an athlete to wear it.

At a time when several designers are merging men’s and women’s collections into a single show – regularly witnessed at Burberry and Gucci for example – there was the welcome sighting of men on Mr Armani’s runway this morning, a new addition to proceedings here. It wasn’t a statement in gender fluidity (that isn’t Armani’s thing) but the men’s tailored offering – double-breasted dinner jackets and roomy ankle-skimming trousers – no doubt struck a chord with female showgoers who might just find themselves wondering into the men’s department the next time they’re in store.

Paris Fashion Week Emporio Armani Women’s Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show