Diane von Fürstenberg surprises everyone during New York Fashion Week
Paolo Riva and Jonathan Saunders for Spring/Summer 2017 Collection
Diane von Fürstenberg Spring/Summer 2017 Collection was wonderful thanks to Jonathan Saunders’ debut with the brand .
In facts, Paolo Riva, the new CEO of Diane von Furstenberg presented its first collection under the new creative leadership of the Scottish-born designer Jonathan Saunders.
Saunders’ style and touch, famous for his smart use of prints and color, mixed with the asymmetric elements pulled from DVF’s most wonderful creations.
“What’s wonderful about the company is that Paolo [Riva], the new CEO, came from Valentino and Tory Burch, so he’s seen a lot of different aspects of the business, and he’s a merchant — he really understands the product, he loves clothes and he’s incredibly supportive,” Saunders said. “So together, we’ve been able to take a brand which is known and loved and respected because of its founder and the reason she started it, and take it to the next decade.”
The wonderful fluid collection involves highly wearable dresses, separates and jackets in juxtaposing print styles and colours, alongside a small but core collection of accessories.
Von Furstenberg has never had any patience for the feminine habit of self-deprecation: her memoir is titled The Woman I Wanted To Be.
Is amazing how the house’s wrap dress had been recut on the bias and fabricated in bold graphic colour ways (a classic Saunders statement) and the wide printed trousers in fluttering kimono silk prints, bold striped separates and statement silky asymmetric dresses were reassuringly familiar.
“I love the idea of it being classic, real ’70s shapes. Pointy stilettos, strappy sandals, but then trying to fabricate them in a modern way,” Saunders told FN. “The juxtaposition of very ’70s shapes with graphic white nappa. Also, that eclectic feeling of mixing different materials, jewelry worn with the shoes. It feels like a great balance between decoration and simplicity.” Saunders spoke with vigor as he talked about the new partnership. “It’s so exciting,” he said. “I love it here, and I love being in New York. I love this brand, the combination of the two things has been an exciting chapter.”
The collection presented this fashion week will arrive in stores from February and while most of it was on display at the presentation certain pieces were held back. Riva is yet to fully embrace the ready-to-buy structure that has seduced New York fashion of late. But the new boys are keeping back a few surprises.
Author: Maria Elena Fabi