Presentation Collection Couture Fall / Winter 2016-17
July 6, 2016, from 10.00 to 19.00
Salon Louis XV, Hotel Ritz
15, Place Vendôme – Paris
Couture creations such art machines built to fly and reach the dreams. In a succession of dreamlike and real suggestions that bring to mind, with an underlying romance, the greek myth of Icarus. Capsule couture collection for autumn winter 2016-17, “Icarus”, which will be presented Wednesday, July 6 in the Salon Louis XV Hotel Ritz Paris, Antonio Grimaldi plays with traditional tailoring the story of Icarus.
In the collection for next winter, the clothes become sculptures to wear, thanks to the fabrics cady cracks doubled with organza that create volume and give structure to the silhouette.
Organza triple mix, with different shades, from gray gradient on the lilac, generating a mirror effect. Inlays Cady cracks of silk tulle, then, reveal naked and transparencies and the opulence of the rich crystal embroidery seems the fabric sewing, in a game of plots and warps, which retains the texture. tulle feathers, the use of the fil cuir de lamé and silver, the wire embroidery maximalists that recall the textures of fabrics, even in hand-painted ostrich feathers, in a dichotomous contrast with the new study of the shapes and lines that are clean though marrying the wealth of pearls crystal embroideries.
The color palette recalls the works of the Flemish painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder, who in In 1558 he painted “The Fall of Icarus”, through the choice of cool colors and soft as ice, shaded gray on the lilac, up to ivory that in an optical métissage turns pink powder. Colors which they are broken down, reassembled and assembled in fashion through the watchful eye of designers also to contemporary art of Gerhard Richter from which Antonio Grimaldi leaves affect the material process of photo-artist’s paintings. Multifaceted and complex works pure visual abstraction, in which reality is transformed into an imaginary path, which becomes concrete painting. As well as the myth of Icarus, mythology, is a mental illusion that evolves in art in couture dresses. Fusing technology to craftsmanship in textiles and lasered fil coupe carved by hand.
Must the capsule collection the flared skirts that effect become the front trousers jumpsuit from big soirée with the addition of structured panels symbolizing the idea of wings. The creations cady cracks are built on the mannequin with the drapping technique to create folds and geometries. Antonio Grimaldi studying the volumes with an experimental research that redesigns silhouette giving a new femininity, made of dreams that can be achieved, flying with imagination, through the clothes.
Author: Cristina Fiorentino