From Couture Collection Spring/Summer 2018 to the Bridal Couture Proposals for season Spring/Summer 2018
On Monday, January 22nd, at 6 pm in Salle Melpomène of Palais des Beaux-Arts 13 Quai Malaquais, in Paris, I had the possibility to observe the Couture Collection Spring-Summer 2018 of the unique Antonio Grimaldi.
I was very impressed by the beautiful dresses that remind me of Cambodia and the charm of the temples of Angkor Wat, where nature takes possession of the beauty that belongs to it, climbing on the architecture in a mystical fusion.
Antonio was inspired by the colours of rice fields and of the Vietnamese terraces, the lights of the lanterns of Hoi An, in a journey with dreamlike nuances yet at the same time realistic.
I can definitely say that his Collection is inspired by the wind of the Orient, painted with bright shades where Haute Couture becomes a play on the military uniform.
In fact, his collection, represents, in my opinion, a strong woman able to struggle the hardest wars.
It is an “army” collection reinterpreted in the key of couture in which dungarees, supported by crystal straps that reveal the back, and where shirts are embellished with platinum metal embroidery recall the ranks of generals.
The sahariana, a reinterpreted must on the catwalk, becomes an evening dress.
And what can I say about the other outfits?
Thread embroidered coat dress with pendant if effect on fabrics inlaid with tulle and immersed in crystals. Shirts as long dresses, also worn over pants, with hand-embroidered collars. Then asymmetric interplay between panels that intertwine and turn into traces between pink gold embroidery.
The colour palette ranges from mauve to wisteria, passing to beige and the shades of copper-effect pink while minicoats in chiffon lined with organza, dresses made with a métissage of chiffon, cady crepe and duchess in a material and tactile contrast, almost sculptural.
In Grimaldi Collection I saw a strong inspiration not only from the story but also from art, as a matter of facts, spots of colour recall the pictorial paintings of Paul Gauguin.
I had the possibility to see Antonio, not only in the Official Calendar of last Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week but also in Rome.
I met Antonio in Rome where he told me about his Bridal Couture proposals for season Spring-Summer 2018 .
He was so helpful to answer some of my questions, during the interview on his Bridal Couture Proposals.
M: Where do you get the idea of creating colourful wedding dresses?
A: In every Fashion Shows, our aim is to tell a story. As in our High Fashion shows, even in the Bridal collections, where our bride is not a commercial classic bride, but wears a dress rich in High Fashion, it is different.
Therefore, our dresses use not only white and ivory colours, but also other important colours.
M: In this way your bride becomes fantastic, she is more beautiful than a classical bride
A: Yes. For example, we no longer use lace in our lastest collections, because we want to offer something different, something more connected to High Fashion.
M: Just like your fabrics … what’s your fabrics origin?
A: We work exclusively with Made in Italy, even our silks are made in Italy. In this Collection, the game that is created by the union of different fabrics, such as silk, cady, chiffon and satin, create a unique dress, that is very particular.
We decided to play with various weights: from the lightness of the chiffon, to the Cady that gives the line, until the satin that gives the structure.
M: What about the leather, instead?
A: Our leather is also used in our autumn winter collection, as a sign of paternity, since we work a lot on fashion research, with the combinations of silk and leather we create more contemporary clothes.
For example, we combined the leather with the pailette, and we created weaves of leather embroidery, to meet the needs of our customers, creating, thanks to the combination of different materials, unique evening dresses.
Leather can be considered as a casual material used on an evening dress.
M: From Gwen Stefani to Amy Lee, the Evanescence singer, you collaborated with several celebrities.
A: Yes, Amy chose one of my turquoise tulle dress with satin inserts, during a fairytale video filmed in a Tuscan villa. While Fiorella Mannoia, she wore my clothes for the cover of her album and for Sanremo.
M: What about your work in the Middle East?
A: Working with the Middle East for more than twenty years, I have dressed many Royal families, from Kuwait to Saudi Arabia, to Qatar. These are beautiful, interesting women who follow Fashion with passion, and the lucky ones know the real value of High Fashion, and they know the latest trends, asking me modern and contemporary evening dresses.
I created wedding dresses for these Royal families of the Middle East, following the requests of their weddings, looking for a Design that could offer something different.
M: Regarding the commercial relations with the foreign market, what can you tell me?
A: I am one of the few stylists who takes work from abroad and takes the foreign work to Italy. Many designers brought their work abroad, but we travel and we work a lot with the foreign market, only with our Made in Italy.
I want to conclude this article, by mentioning the names of the celebrities who have chosen to wear Grimaldi’s creations, during international red carpets and for important events.
As mentioned in the interview Antonio, from the pop star Gwen Stefani for the Disney Awards, to Amy Lee of Evanescence, for the video “Speak to me” to Fiorella Mannoia.
Antonio has also dressed actress like Holly Hunter; Felicity Huffman; Emily Robinson, the singer Sara Bareilles during the Oscar night in 2017; the actress Pilar Lopez de Ayala, and the Bollywood star Katrina Kaif.
The list does not end here, he also dressed the top model Elisa Sednaoui at the exclusive wedding of Giovanna Battaglia in Capri, Moran Atias for the international television series Tyrant, Michelle Hunziker, Vanessa Incontrada, Ilary Blasi, Giulia Bevilacqua, Anna Safroncik, Chiara Francini, Ornella Muti and Naike Rivelli.
Author: Maria Zota